Shrek
,
Wednesday, 18th of August 2010 06:08:13 PM
Attic: Menards has a packed fiberglass insulation & will allow
Shrek
you to use their ''Wasp'' blower to install it. I just bought on sale, per
Registered User
package was 24.00 reg about 29.00. It says that for r-26 or so you need
Joined: Monday, 17th of May 2010, 18:56:42
13.7 packages for 1000 square feet. They figure a square foot coverage as
Posts: 413
12X12X8.8'' though how they do that is beyond me. Agree blow in is the
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easiest, although unfaced batting can do the same, just harder to tote up
there & spread around, because of the rafters & need to get close to the
edges but not on top of any ventilation ur roof may have.
Basement walls only need firring strips, usually 1X3 & you can glue if you
like, let it set & then use the staple strips on the edges of the batting
to hold the batting in place. Remember with that application you should
used faced insulation. You can also frame 2X4 is on 16'' or 24'' centers
to match size of insulation batting, & they make wire to help hold the
batting between the 2X4's. Cannot tell you costs on this, as roll batting
flucuates all over the place depending on R Values.
As for ur windows, storms or a lot of caulking & sealing can reduce air
loss. Most people don't realize older windows lose their caulk flex over
the years, cracks appear in them, & the panes themselves come loose. you
can find the worst offenders with a candle held close to all framing, &
especially where the window frames double--double hung windows if you have
them, have a pane that goes up, & and pane than goes down. If you unlatch
for ventilation, then don't force the upper pane into its channel, you
could be incurring loss there & at the joint of the two pane is frames.
Silicone caulk is probably the best, & can be applied both inside &
outside, & will come out white to begin with then over several days turn
clear. I would caulk all outside framing where it meets the walls, plus
check for pane leaks.
55% heat loss in a basement seems very high, but if it is not insulated,
has ground level windows, or you live in a very cold climate, you will
lose heat by convection or transfer through the basement walls, whether or
not they are poured concrete or cement blocks. Again, insulation is the
best, & for looks, it should be covered--1/4'' drywall is cheap & creates
a space for the insulation, & if you don't live in the basement or use it
much, mistakes are fairly easy to live with if you cut short, long, crack,
etc. There are patching materials for all that that are self explanatory
on how to use.
Start with attic though, as it is the area most exposed to elements, both
heat & cold.
Visit Menards, Home Depot, Lowe is & get an inservice from a salesperson.
In addition there is a DIY site & you can google or it.